As promised, I tinkered with the Kindle sleeve pattern, and now have an iPad version available. I should have anticipated that there would be a demand for the pattern in the first place, as right after I finished my Kindle sleeve, my friend Abbie, also known as The Green Wife, asked if I could make her one for her iPad.
If I’d listened to her at the time, I would have had both patterns ready at the same time! Instead, I spent the last couple of days knitting one up for her, this time out of some lovely The Plucky Knitter Superwash Merino Worsted in Love Letters, and I dropped it off at her house yesterday. She sent me some lovely photos of it today, so I can now share the pattern with her photography.
I plan to knit a second iPad sleeve out of Malabrigo Worsted for a future giveaway, so please check back!
- Yarn: Malabrigo Yarn Merino Worsted, 150-170 yards (140-155 m).
- Needles: US 8 – 5.0 mm, 36″ or longer for magic loop, or use your preferred circular knitting method.
- Size: 10″ x 8″ (25 cm x 20 cm), 10.75″ x 5.5″ unstretched (27 cm x 14 cm)
- Gauge: 20 stitches and 32 rows = 4″ (10cm) in stockinette.
- Notions: cable needle (if preferred), stitch markers, one 3/4″ (19 mm) button, tapestry needle, sewing needle, thread to sew on button, crochet hook in H – 5.0 mm (optional).
2 x 2 Left Cross:
With a cable needle: Slip two stitches purlwise onto cable needle, hold in front, knit next two stitches, knit the two stitches from the cable needle.
Without a cable needle: Slip two stitches, purlwise to the right-hand needle, knit next two stitches and transfer to RH needle. Slip LH needle into first two stitches from the front, slip RH needle out of stitches 3 and 4, and then back into these two stitches behind stitches 1 and 2, knit stitches 1 and 2. (I learned this technique here.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________
CO 64 stitches using Judy’s Magic Cast-On, which establishes knitting in the round.
Rows 1-3: *K3, P1, (K4, P1) 5 times, K3* twice.
Row 4: *K3, P1, Cross 2 L , P1, K4, P1, Cross 2 L, P1, K4, P1, Cross 2 L, P1, K3* twice.
Row 5-7: *K3, P1, (K4, P1) 5 times, K3* twice. .
Row 8: *K3, P1, K4, P1, Cross 2 L, P1, K4, P1, Cross 2 L, P1, K4, P1, K3* twice.
Repeat Rows 1-8 until piece measures 10.75″ (27 cm) from cast-on edge, ending on an odd row.
Bind off 32 stitches and then continue in pattern across the back, now working flat with WS (odd rows) knit as: P3, K1, (P4, K1) 5 times, P3.
Continue for approximately 2.75″ (7 cm), and then work RS button-hole row as K3, P1, (K4, P1) 2 times, K2, YO, K2tog, P1, (K4, P1) 2 times, K3.
Knit in pattern for another .75″ (2 cm), and then bind off. I chose to single-crochet around the flap to reinforce it, but that is optional. If did it without breaking the yarn by binding off on the RS, single crocheting down the left side, slip stitching back up, slip stitching across the top, single crocheting down the right side, slip stitching back to the top, and then finishing off on the top right side of the flap. You could so this in knitting by picking up and knitting the stitches, and then knitting across them for a couple of rows of garter.
I’ve decided to add a new note on how to block this pattern. Since the body is intended to stretch to fit, it does not need to be blocked, but the flap really does look better if it’s been blocked, so what I do is slip the iPad (or iPad-sized insert) into the completed sleeve then place it flat on my blocking board and pin the flap so that it matches the dimensions of the case now that it’s stretched; the pins should be placed around the edges and will look like half of a rectangle. I then carefully slip the iPad out of the sleeve and use a spray bottle of water to saturate the flap and let it dry.




Wow, this looks great! I hope to get started on one soon for my ipad.
Thank you! I hope you enjoy it.
This is SO going to be the next thing I knit…
Pls pent
Would you clarify something in the pattern for me, please? In row 4 (and all subsequent ‘cable’ rows), if you want it to look like the photo, would you do the Left Cross every time you came to a K4? Thanks!
No, you don’t. The pattern is actually offset cables, so you’re actually only cabling each column once every eight rows. The exterior coloumns (1, 3, 5) are cabled on row 4 and the interior (2, 4) on row 8.
Very beautiful! Are you willing to make one for sale? I have a newborn and do not have the time to knit
I have searched far and wide and can’t seem to find any cute knit sleeves!!!
Thank you! There’s one available in my shop, haramis.etsy.com, or you can contact me for a custom order.
[...] Cabled iPad Sleeve (Pattern) (via haramis knits) As promised, I tinkered with the Kindle sleeve pattern, and now have an iPad version available. I should have anticipated that there would be a demand for the pattern in the first place, as right after I finished my Kindle sleeve, my friend Abbie, also known as The Green Wife, asked if I could make her one for her iPad. If I'd listened to her at the time, I would have had both patterns ready at the same time! Instead, I spent the last couple of d … Read More [...]
Hi. I do not know how to cast on do the “Magic Cast On” It looks like the Magic Loop. Can I just join in the round?
I am a self taught knitter. I’m just about done with the cover and I’m a bit unsure of what you mean from the point of binding off half the stitches. When you say, “continue in pattern across the back, now working flat with ws (odd rows) knit as…..” – does that mean use the purl pattern for the odd rows and the knit pattern for the even?
Still learning how to read patterns:(
Thank you for this wonderful pattern!
That’s exactly right. You were previously working in the round over all of the stitches, after binding off half the stitches you begin to work flat or back and forth across the remaining stitches. To maintain the pattern, the wrong-side/odd rows need to be purled, and the right side/even rows will be knit as before.
Thank you for such a quick response. Can’t wait to finish tonight. What a great and easy pattern. Again, thank you!
Hi, I was wanting to use the cable pattern for a sweater. Is there a version of the repeat already translated for rows rather than in the round? Thanks!
You knit the RS (even) rows as established in the pattern, and knit the WS (odd rows) as: P3, K1, (P4, K1) 5 times, P3.
Wow what a beautiful bag! I’m going to make this for a business trip to Austin, TX but do you have any suggestions for a strap to make this a cross body? The ipad is a bit heavy so I’m concerned to knit on rings. Maybe sew a piece of leather to hold the rings? Any suggestions welcomed and thank you for such a beautiful pattern!
WEndy
This is a really soft, stretchy case, so I don’t now how well it would hold up to hanging. I would think you would have to reinforce the interior with a lining to give it enough structure to use as a bag.
Could you suggest where to sew the button? How far down or up should I sew it? I don’t have an iPad and this is a gift for a friend so I don’t know how it closes without having an iPad in it.
Thanks,
Kathleen
You can use a book or piece of cardboard with similar dimensions. The measurements for an iPad are height: 9.50 inches (241.2 mm), width: 7.31 inches (185.7 mm), and depth: 0.34 inch (8.8 mm) (found here). I’ve made a lot of these at this point, and over time, I’ve started shortening the flap, and adding two buttons instead of one, so my button placement is a little different, but in general, if it works with it on, I like to place them in the center of the the little circle created by the pattern–second down in the middle for one button (example here) and in the outer repeats (1 and 5) for two buttons, which you can see in the etsy shop.
Hallo – Help
Self taught knitter struggling with reading the pattern – sorry in advance if these are totally stupid questions:
1) If I cast on 64 stitches, how does that work out with Row 1 being only 46 stitches?
2) And I don’t understand the Cross 2 L: Trawling through internet, but confused:
a) do I slip 1 stitch onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 1 st from left-hand needle, then knit st from cable needle – if so – do I knit K or P?
OR:
b) do I slip 2 stitches onto a cable needle, let cable needle hang in front of work as I knit the next 2 stiches; then knit 2 stitches off of cable needle (what way K or P)?
And following from that:
does cross 4 L mean: slip 4 stitches onto cable needle, knit next 4 stitches and then knit the 4 off the cable needle?
Thanks a lot for your help.
Stupid me. I was reading a sweater pattern and thought the stitches in bracket mean a different size – please ignore above question – I was just very stupid
Thanks
Hi,
I love this pattern and just started to knit it. I’m not doing the magic cast on as I can’t seem to get the hang of it. I was wondering, if I just cast on normally with my round needles, is it double the number of initial stitches? I.e.- 128 and not 64. It’s just that I’ve cast on 64 and it looks a little small…
Any help you could provide would be amazing thank you.
Sara
You keep the CO of 64. It will look small, but it’s meant to stretch to fit the final dimensions.
Your pattern is lovely! Here is my version on Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/SadieVae/cabled-ipad-sleeve
I didn’t take the time to learn JML; I think I can manage it now, but wonder if it only works with magic loop, or can I use JML with dpns? Seems as though it would be tight. Thanks for any advice!
Sorry, I don’t know how I missed replying to this. Judy’s Magic Cast On will work with DPNs. It’s particularly friendly for use with Magic Loop, but at the end of the day, it’s just another way to CO in the round and will translate to DPNs. Thank you for your kind comment.
Love this! I did one exactly as written; I was using different yarn and only did a rough gauge swatch so it was a little too small for my iPad but was perfect for my sister’s Kindle. I used I-cord bind off for the edges, picking up stitches on the flap sides. It turned out great.
For mine I really wanted a strap. I used bulky yarn from my stash, and modified the pattern to P2, cable, p2, cable, p2, cable, p2 on each side to compensate for the yarn. I did a couple of rows of straight knitting to begin so I had about 3/4 inch with no cabling on the bottom as well as on both sides. Then I made a continuous loop strap and sewed it into the inside of the bag, down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side, to give the bag the support it needed, attaching both edges of the strap snugly to the bag. For the strap I used two strands of yarn with smaller (6) needles and did a double (aka flat) I-cord. I did 5 stitches for the part that would be inside the bag- about 5/8 inch wide- then increased to 7 stitches for the rest of the strap. The strap took way longer to do than the bag!
It turned out great. The strap is substantial with only the slightest stretch and I feel the iPad is very protected inside the bag with super good edge protection. It was my first double I-cord and will not be my last for sure.
Thanks for a great pattern!
This is gorgeous! I’d love to make it a bit bigger and use it as a macbook cover, but I’m not quite sure how to go about that. Any suggestions?
It depends on how you want it to look, but the easiest way is to add more cables. I’ve done one version of this as a cover for a 13″ laptop. I kept the sides as written, but added 2 more cable panels per side (to 7/7 instead of 5/5) and of course made it longer to fit properly. It used one full skein of Malabrigo Worsted, or 210 yards.
would love a crocheted pattern instead. Can you help me out?
I’m sorry. I crochet a bit, but not enough to write a pattern for it.
Hi I’m a bit confused with the flap. I just finished casting off the 32 stitches and I’m wondering when does the row of cables happen? You say odd rows knit P3, K1, (P4 K1) 5 times K3. Right rows Purl? So when do I use the cable needle? I see cables on the flap of your done bag in the pic. Thanks.
What the text says is, “Bind off 32 stitches and then continue in pattern across the back, now working flat with WS (odd rows) knit as: P3, K1, (P4, K1) 5 times, P3.” The phrase “in pattern” implies that the even rows are worked as established when you were still knitting in the round, or
Rows 2: *K3, P1, (K4, P1) 5 times, K3* twice.
Row 4: *K3, P1, Cross 2 L , P1, K4, P1, Cross 2 L, P1, K4, P1, Cross 2 L, P1, K3* twice.
Row 6: *K3, P1, (K4, P1) 5 times, K3* twice.
Row 8: *K3, P1, K4, P1, Cross 2 L, P1, K4, P1, Cross 2 L, P1, K4, P1, K3* twice.
I hope that helps.
Thank you soooooo much. I totally get it!
Hi, I’m trying to do this on dpns. I’ve cast on 64, but row 1 has only 46 stitches?!!? Am I doing something wrong?
oops. do you mean 64 stitches on each needle? or 64 total?
64 total. 32 stitches per side.
Hi, what is the exact wool you’ve used in the picture as I am struggling to find it! I am going to ask my mother very nicely if she will do this and was hoping to provide the wool as well
Super thanks
It’s an indie dyer, from The Plucky Knitter, so it’s relatively rare. If you’re on Ravelry, there’s a skein there.
http://www.ravelry.com/people/wirledpeas/stash/superwash-merino-worsted-2
I hope that helps.
Do you allow for this pattern to be used for selling the finished products?
Yes, I do, but I would like to be credited by name if you’re selling it in person or a link back to this blog if you’re selling it online. Thanks.
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